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(This guide is going to be reorganized and outdated information edited soon.) -2/22/2018
India * Simon * Garfunkel * Airivata*
Ross** Picasso** Cyllene* Elara
Titan* Callisto* Amare* Nautilus
Phoebe Bellatrix
*Diseased
** No Longer Own
India- Died by getting stuck in decor
Simon- Died by being exposed to salty water for too long
Garfunkel- Died by being exposed to salty water for too long
Airivata- Died from symptoms of dropsy
Ross- Bought by customer at work
Picasso- Given to my work to put up for sale
Cyllene- Died from getting stuck in filter
Elara- Blue and red female crowntail
Titan- Cause of death unknown.
Callisto- Cause of death unknown.
Emare- Died from getting stuck in filter
Nautilus- Male Koi Plakat
Phoebe- Gorgeous yellow pineapple halfmoon female
Bellatrix- Mysterious dark crowntail female
I worked at a saltwater and freshwater fish store and I have owned fish tanks my entire life, ranging from a 80 gal fresh to 60 gal salt. I am young, but am very passionate about my animals and helping others keep their pets happy and healthy. I create guides for pets that I am familiar with and or own so that others may take my experience and advice. I know that there are many ways to do things in the aquarium hobby so if my techniques differ from others I understand. I try to have a reason behind everything I do, and why I do it. So here is my guide.
Are you planning on a tank? Do you have a betta already at home? Did you just buy one today? Well here is a guide for you. If you already own one take a look to see if you are caring for your pet to ensure it lives a long, healthy, life.
Light Fixture and cover?- Bettas do well with little light, so not much is needed if you don't have the funds. If your tank comes with lights they will already be enough. But if you do not have a light you may not have to worry unless you have live plants. It is certainly easier to see their beautiful colors with a light and benefits their colors. As for a cover it is mandatory as betta fish are jumpers! They may try to jump out of the tank without a cover on it or if there are holes where the filter/heater is. You can easily buy mesh or crafting mesh canvas to cut to the size of the holes and place them over. You can buy it at most craft stores and it usually costs under a dollar for a whole piece.
Filter?- Small filters meant for 2.5-10 gallon tanks are nice because they help keep a home for essential bacteria that will breakdown waste and ammonia from your fish. The only problem is that your bettas fins are very... very delicate. In the wild they live in slow moving streams. In a tank with a filter the current may be too much for a betta to comfortably swim in and they may struggle to get to the surface to breath. The intake may also suck them and their fins in and they can get stuck. Ripped fins can easily get infected and diseased so what I have learned over the years is to get a pre-filter. Prefilter Sponges can be bought and used to cover the filter intake. This slows down the flow a bit and your bettas fins wont get stuck but still allows for bacteria to grow.
Substrate?- Bare bottom, gravel, sand, all of it works. Though in my experience the marbles have damaged the fins of my bettas. My bettas would go to rest in a crevice in the marbles and come up and get their fins pinched and teared. :C so I would only put a few in if you want a little decoration. Anything that is sharp or jagged would not work either cause that could also tear their fins.
Heating?- Bettas in the wild are tropical fish who thrive in waters 78-82 degrees F. If you live in cold areas a heater might be essential. I live in Southern California (It is hot almost year round), and I still need a heater. Small heaters for 2.5-5 gallons cost around 16-20$. They will keep the water about 80 degrees constantly. Though watch for overheating if the heater doesn't work properly. You may need to take it back. The first week the heater seemed to spike and got hot really fast and made the tank 90 degrees but once I unplugged it and let the tank cool down and then plugged it in again it worked properly. So it might just need some adjusting. For a larger tank you will need to buy a heater made for 10 gallons or more. I used to not have a heater for my betta and he started to get depressed, and he ended up starting to bite at his fins out of stress, so I highly recommend a heater so that your betta will remain happy and keep normal healthy behavior.
Decor?- Some bettas like a lot of decor and some only like a little. I would provide a medium amount of decor to see how your betta likes it and then add more or less as you figure out their personality. Make sure all the decor has smooth edges and can't tear fins. So lava rocks are a no... because they are sharp and jagged. Bettas like places to hide so a small cave might work if the edges are smooth. Terracotta pots work too as long as the hole in the bottom is covered on both sides. You can super glue a marble on each side of the hole, let it dry for a couple of days, and add it into the tank. I have heard of horror stories of bettas getting stuck in the holes and dying, or getting severe wounds in the process, so it probably isn't going to be a good thing for your fish. They love to explore and may try to swim through it. Plants? well bettas love plants to hide in and swim through, though plastic plants will tear their fins, so silk or live plants are recommended. Sometimes silk plants may have sharp plastic pieces so you may want to trim them and sand them down with sandpaper. With live aquatic plants be sure to get ones that will fit in your tank. Slow growing plants will probably be nice for your small tank, and you will need some source of light for the plants. Broader leafed plants tend to do better in low light than small leafed plants. Moss balls do great with bettas as well! Make sure you choose true aquatic plants that can live fully underwater. Plants will need supplements and minerals. For my plants I use API root tabs and API Leaf Zone. They will help keep your plants healthy.
Toys?- There are a few products that are used as toys for betta fish. Betta hammocks are small plastic leaves bettas like to sit on near the surface of the water. It acts like a bed they can rest on and easily gulp air from the surface. You can also get small mirrors for your betta to play with. They will flare up at their reflection. I recommend only putting it in for a little while so your betta doesn't tire out or get bored of it. Every so often you can put it in for them. You can also put in floating plastic beads or bottle caps, as long as they have smooth edges and can't fit in the bettas mouth. Your betta may poke it around, nudge, and swim around it.
Tank Mates?-
There is always a risk with bettas and other fish, but it all depends on the types of fish you get and the nature of your betta. I will go through some compatible tank mates for your betta. These are all peaceful fish that will not harm your betta and can live in the same waters. Make sure if you do get other fish you have an appropriate sized tank. I wouldn't recommend a tank under 15 gallons if you want tank mates. (unless they are small shrimp or snails).
Tetras- Tetras of any kind are safe for your betta, these include but are not limited to, bloodfin, black, glolight, ember, neon, cardinal, black skirt, white skirt, glo fish, rummy nose, etc. They all do best in schools of 5-9 individuals so keep that in mind when you plan on stocking your tank.
Danios- I would recommend any danio as long as it is not a giant danio. Zebra danio's would go well and are peaceful for your bettas. Even small danio's like celestial pearls do good with bettas, as seen in my tank. These are schooling fish.
Rasbora's- These are small fish similar to danio's and tetras. They are peaceful schooling fish that do well with bettas.
White Clouds- Again small schooling fish. These prefer colder waters but can adapt to live with betta fish in 75 degrees.
Otocinclus Catfish- A small peaceful catfish that eats many types of algae. These are far more efficient cleaners than plecos and eat more types of algae. They are not messy like plecos and do not produce much waste. They like small schools around 4 individuals but do not do well in recently established aquariums with little algae growth. If you must get these provide them with algae pellets.
Corydoras Catfish- schooling fish that dwell on the bottom of the tank. Try them in groups of 4. They will uproot live plants so they are not the best for planted tanks.
Loaches- Smaller loach species would be good for betta fish. Most prefer colder water and can adapt with bettas in 75 degrees. They like to school as well so try to get 4 individuals. They are bottom dwellers and also uproot plants like the cory catfish. Do not buy large loaches like the clown loach, despite its striking colors these can get up to 12 inches in length.
Guppies- Guppies do well with bettas but they will breed excessively if you buy a male and female. Your betta may eat the live babies that guppies produce.
African Dwarf Frogs- These are small frogs that grow about 2 inches long. They can also live with bettas peacefully. They, like bettas, tend to jump out of the tank if it is not fully covered with a secure top.
Nerite Snails- These small snails, about an inch in width, are very efficiant algae eaters unlike the mystery and apple snails. They do not grow large and have quite beautiful patterns. They can eat many types of algae, even the stubborn and hard to get rid of species. They do not over take aquariums with their offspring and do not produce a lot of waste like other types of snails.
Small Shrimp- I would suggest ghost shrimp to try out since they are fairly cheap at stores. If your betta does not eat them you can experiment with cherry or crystal shrimp. Many bettas will eat shrimp so watch out.
Warning- If your betta is nipping at any of your tank mates you put in, it is probably best to rehome them or if you have another tank put them in there. Bettas can be aggressive and some just don't like anyone you put in. If you are planning on having a betta with tankmates it may be best to buy the tankmates first and have them established for a week or two, then adding the betta later. It depends on the nature of your betta as well, they can do well with peaceful fish, but may nip at the fins of fancy guppies, or other fish with long fins.
My fish have a range of personalities, India for example hated any moving thing I put in his tank, attacked everything, but Airivata was the kindest and most laid back betta ever, and even shared his home with schools of tetras and two female bettas (Cyllene and Elara). Its all trial and error really.
You may or may not have heard of the term cycling in the fish keeping hobby. When I say this I am talking about the nitrogen cycle in the tank. This is for new tanks that haven't been established, and it must be done before adding new fish. Here is a link that explains in detail the nitrogen cycle www.fishlore.com/NitrogenCycle…
Before adding your fish it is recommended by fish hobbyists to cycle your tank for at least 3 weeks. For my tanks it generally takes 2 months to cycle it completely. If you are still planning on getting fish, you should take it slow. Buy the tank first and run it for a few weeks fishless. If you are adding plants it can help speed up the process. I wouldn't add any fish to a tank that hasn't been running for at least 2 weeks, and that is with plants. You can also add an API product called "stress zyme". This already has the beneficial bacteria and helps establish a colony. Add it weekly to a new tank to speed up the process and bulk up your colony. I also add some every time I do a large water change to my tanks.
There are many types of different bettas that need different requirements.
Plakat- These are the short finned variety that need more space to roam, I would suggest a 10 gallon for these guys
King- These will need a 15 gallon or more. They get LARGE, hence the name king.
Dumbo- These guys would do best in a smaller tank with a low flow due to their extremely large fins. I would say a 2.5 to 5 gallon
Rose Petal- These bettas have very large fins that overlap each other, though quite beautiful they often have problems with their fins weighing them down. A small 2.5 to 5 gallon tank is best for these, with lots of places to rest on near the surface of the water. Make sure the filter has a low flow as well.
All other varieties- This includes any betta with long flowing fins. Crown, delta, veil, half moon, double tail etc. These can go anywhere from a 2.5-10 gallon or more depending on the flow of the water. They are slower and delicate in aquariums with a powerful filtration or bubblers.
What should you feed your betta? I always like choosing the healthiest foods so I get them omega one fish food (pellets) for bettas. Blood worms are also a good treat, and helps fatten them up. If you get frozen blood worms make sure to melt them in de-chlorinated water first and only feed your betta a very small amount. Bettas stomachs are the size of their eyeballs so they can't eat much in one feeding. You can feed bettas flakes too butt be careful how much you feed, in most cases one or two flakes is enough.
When?- Feed your betta 1-2 times daily. Bettas get impacted easily, if your betta seems to be impacted try fasting them for a few days. Some betta owners feed them their normal food for 5 days, fast them for one day, and feed them 1/4 of a blanched pea on the 7th day. This helps them keep a regulated system but it is not necessary. Blanched peas are unsalted boiled peas, the skin must be removed before serving to a betta.
How Much?- I recommend feeding them only 1-3 pellets at a time. Remember how small their stomachs are.
This is a widely controversial topic but I can give you my own experience with cleaning and how often to do it.
The process of deep cleaning- Deep cleaning to me is when you scrub all sides of the tank, clean the gravel with a siphon, and remove a large portion of the water in a tank, and I wouldn't do so in a tank 10 gallons or more, as it can disturb the cycle which helps eat away at the ammonia and nitrates in the tank, and it may also stress out the entire ecosystem. For smaller tanks like 2.5-5 gallons it may mean a 50/80% water change. Never remove more than 40% of the water in a tank 10 gallons or larger at one time. If your fish is sick they may need a hospital tank that can be cleaned daily with 100% water changes.
1. You will need to remove the fish, invertebrates, and plants.
2. Keep your fish in cups with the old tank water and plants in a bowl with old tank water, make sure the cup has a secure lid with breathing holes. You can buy pet containers at your local pet store.
3. If you have filter pads or sponges also float them in a bowl or cup so you don't kill the beneficial bacteria living in it.
4. Unplug all filters, heaters, and lights.
5. These tanks are small and you may be able to lift them to clean them in a bath tub or shower. I recommend taking the water and watering your plants with them because it has a lot of beneficial minerals and is better than dumping it all down the drain. Take your small tank to the shower or bathtub and rinse out the substrate (this step can be skipped if you want to keep the beneficial bacteria in your gravel or sand alive).
6. Wipe all the sides of the tank and any decor and rinse them.
7. Clean the filter and unclog it if needed. You can even clean your decor and filter in a distilled white vinegar and water solution. 1 part vinegar for 10 parts water. Then rinse very well. You can also clean any plastic decor this way as well.
8. Once you have completed this put the tank back on its stand or shelf, empty.
9. Now fill a bucket with tap water, make sure it is close to the temperature of the tank water before you dumped it, and you can even heat it if needed. Usually I just add a little cold and hot water and check the temperature to see if it is right. As long as it is 76-82 degrees it should be fine.
10. Then add water conditioner to the bucket. Add as much is needed for your tank. Add any other products like the stress zyme etc. Just make sure they wont counteract each other. Mix the water, I usually use the handle of a fishnet.
11.Then get a cup and start adding the water to the tank.
12. Once half full add back the decor, plants etc. The fill to the top.
13. Turn on filter and heater, no lights yet.
14. Float your betta in a cup half full for 10-20 minutes in the water. Then add some of the clean tank water in the cup and float for another 10-20 minutes. This will prevent shock.
15. Once you have completed this you can gently scoop your fish out, or drain the water from the cup. Do not contaminate the clean water with the water in the cup. Then add your fish into the tank. Hurray! You're done.
1. You will need to remove the fish, invertebrates, and plants.
2. Keep your fish in a container with the old tank water and plants in a bowl with old tank water, make sure the container has a secure lid and breathing holes. You can buy pet containers at your local pet store.
3. If you have filter pads or sponges also float them in a bowl or cup so you don't kill the beneficial bacteria living in it.
4. Unplug all filters, heaters, and lights.
5. Use a siphon, stick it all the way underwater at a 45 degree angle and lift your arm up and down. Make sure the end tube of the siphon is in a bucket lower than the tank. Gravity and suction will do the rest.
6. Suck at the substrate bed, being careful not to suck up the actual substrate or clog the siphon. Go along the entire bottom of the tank. Make sure you take no more than 40% of the water out.
7. Get an algae sponge to scrub on all sides of the tank, the heater, and any other decor.
8. If needed, you can clean your filter with a vinegar and water solution. 1 part vinegar, for every 10 parts water. Then rinse well. You can also clean plastic decor this way.
9. Do not attempt to move an aquarium unless it is completely empty, and get someone to help you.
10. Take the bucket you put all the dirty water in and dump it or water your plants with it.
11. Now rinse the bucket and fill it up with tap water.
12. Use a water conditioner to make your water safe for your tank. API water conditioner, and API stress coat both work to de-chlorinate and detoxify heavy metals, both of which are toxic to fish. If you already have water prepared, and you let the chlorine evaporate from it, you can use that as well. You must let your water sit for at least 24 hours before adding it to a tank if you are not going to use a water conditioner. This process does not remove heavy metals, copper, ammonia or chloramines, it only removes chlorine.
13. Put all the decor and plants back into the tank.
14. Fill up the tank all the way.
15. Turn on all your tanks devices, like the heater, filter, etc. Do not turn on the lights yet.
16. Float your fish for 20 minutes in a plastic bag, make sure 1/3 of the bag has air, the other part water from their container. Once 20 minutes has passed, let in a little of the new tank water, and let them float for 10 minutes. Then add them to the tank.
17. Now you have finished, enjoy your clean tank. Do this every month for a tank 10 gallons or more.
Weekly water changes
Weekly water changes are needed. In a 2.5-5 gallon you will need to remove 20-30% of the water for 3 weeks, and remove the fish when you are performing it, then do a deep clean once a month.
For tanks 10 gallon and up you will need to do weekly 20-30% water changes. Which is removing 20-30% of the water and replacing it with de-chlorinated water. You do not have to remove the fish for these larger tanks. Then one deep clean a month.
Betta fish naturally live in tropical Asian countries in marshes, streams, and drainage ditches. They often live in heavy vegetation and acidic waters. Betta fish normally have large spaces to live in the wild, even if they live in a shallow space. The only time they live in puddles is in the dry season where they have to resort to living in small puddles. It is not healthy for them to live this way and they are very susceptible to diseases in such a small space. Many betta fish die in the dry season due to this and the rest can't live very much longer that way. They will try to jump to bigger puddles to survive the dry season. The reason they can survive in these waters for a while is because they have a special organ that allows them to breathe air from the surface. This is where the myth that bettas can live in mud puddles comes from and how the pet industry has come up with the idea that bettas can live in bowls. When indeed they cannot. Here is a good link where you can read about one of the biggest myths of betta fish nippyfish.net/2011/10/23/the-n…
Bubbles are appearing at the top of the water in clusters??? This is a natural behavior for male bettas. They do this whenever, but some believe it is a sign of happiness. Bettas blow bubble nests even under stress and inadequate conditions so it is disproven in my opinion. It is natural behavior that male bettas do when preparing for a clutch of eggs. Male bettas will coat bubbles in saliva and stick them together to create a floating nest for eggs. If a female is present and pregnant she will release eggs into the water, then the male will fertilize them and put them into the nest. The male will guard the nest until the eggs hatch and the female will swim away because the male is highly aggressive towards her and will kill her. So do not worry if your betta is blowing bubble nests.
You notice there are several betta fish at the store. They are on a shelf and all cramped together in tiny cups. If you want to buy one, make sure you pick a healthy one unless you plan on healing/rehabilitating the betta fish. I recommend that only those with adequate supplies and experience take home the sick ones, just so it heals properly. Look for signs of bulging eyes or belly's, lopsided swimming or floating, pale or transparent fins, inflamed gills, gray chunks of fin, pin holes in fins or tail, pale coloration, how clean the water is. If it is a crowntail the fins may be curled which is usually a sign of bad water conditions and stress. Be mindful that white bettas were obtained through lots of genetic selecting and they may also have problems with their scales. Often pure white bettas may go blind because their scales grow over their eyes.
The healthier ones will usually be the newer ones, which are in the front. Stores will put the new shipment of bettas in the front and the ones that have been there longer will be pushed to the back. What happens to the older bettas? Well usually they die off in a week or two of being placed there. They stay there until they are purchased, and if they are never purchased they die. Sometimes employees will take them in, but who is able to take dozens of bettas? Not many people.
Did you happen to get a bigger tank? a 10 to 15 gallon? Well you can divide the tank easy and only for a few bucks. Then you can have more than one betta fish. Or you can set up a peaceful community tank with a betta in a 20 gallon.
To divide your tank you will need to make your own custom divider. You can have 2 divisions for a 5 gal, 2-3 divisions per 10 gal, 3-4 per 15 gal, and 4-5 with a 20 gal long. I made my own out of a 5 gallon. Do not buy the 2.5 gallon minibow tank with the divider, even if the packaging says it is fine for bettas that leave them with 1.25 gallons of water each. Do not buy any tank less than 5 gallons with a divider, it will not be sufficient to keeping your fish healthy. Make sure you are prepared to take care of diseases and illness that might happen in a divided tank, if one fish gets sick, then assume that your other fish may be sick as well.
It was fairly easy to make this divider myself and only took about 20 minutes
Instructions can be seen here to make your own! bettasplendid.weebly.com/diy-d…
For a community tank you will need a large tank, 15-20 gallons, and remember only one male betta. You can have peaceful fish that get along with bettas, which can be seen in the tank mates section of this page. Since bettas are normally solitary you will need lots of hiding spaces. Remember they still need a heater and make sure you use caution when you add bubblers/airstones, as bettas are not strong swimmers. If the filter is too powerful you may want to get two smaller ones instead and remember to create a buffer so that the betta doesn't get sucked into the intake. Bettas with shorter fins may do better as they swim easier in turbulent water.
Recently I discovered how amazing bettas do in larger tanks. They can live in very large tanks without a problem. If you have other fish you can even try putting a betta in with them. This must always be done with caution, as other tank mates may not get along, but there are always exceptions.
Peaceful Tankmates
Bettas in peaceful tanks with a lot of tetras should be safe. Your betta is less likely to attack fish if they have short fins, what you should worry about is other fish attacking your betta. Lots of fish can be fin nippers, such as mollies, but sometimes you can set up a peaceful tank with a betta and fish that are known as fin nippers. It all depends on the personalities of your fish.
For example, I had a betta named Airivata, he was a plakat, and I added him to my 20 gallon tank that had 2 female mollies. Once I put him in there were no problems at all between my mollies and my betta. There were no fights or anything. He even did fine with the filter intake and the airstones. Despite what most fish hobbyists say, you can try out set ups like this, but always plan for another home for your betta or their tank mates if it doesn't work out.
Aggressive Tankmates?
Aggressive fish can be dangerous to your betta, many are attracted to long flowing fins, and if they are big enough they may eat your betta. Always, always do a setup like this with caution, experience, research, and a backup plan. It is easier to establish the least aggressive fish first and add the most aggressive last. The least aggressive fish can set up their spot in the tank and their place, and when the aggressive fish comes in they are less likely to be bullied.
At my old work we had a 25 gallon tank with lots of tetras, we added a male delta tail betta, and the flow is fairly medium but the betta is fine and his fins are not being torn and he is finding the slower moving spots where he can rest and swim easily. We added 3 blue rams, a type of cichlid, which is an aggressive fish. The betta is not actively attacking any other fish, and the cichlids are keeping to themselves, despite what has been said about them. These types of setups may be possible, but always do with caution, and if you are planning on it, always put the least aggressive species in first, and then add the most aggressive last. I also recommend only experienced fish hobbyists try this. Always have a plan if your setup doesn't work out, you may need another home for your fish.
Bettas are prone to getting finrot and tailrot, which can lead to bodyrot if not treated. Bettas are different than other fish, they have a labyrinth organ that allows them to breathe from the surface. Some medications used to treat finrot and tailrot can harm this special organ. So I am going to share my way of treating this common illness.
First. Avoid anything with tea tree oils in it. Melafix and bettafix are natural formulas for treating finrot, but whats the big deal? They are made of tea tree oils and powders that can harm the labyrinth organ. Yes, bettafix, meant for betta fish, harms them. Do not use it if you want to keep your fishes labyrinth organ functioning properly.
Next, spot the finrot or tail rot. If you see transparent, white, black, red, edges on your bettas fins they could be a sign of finrot. Pinholes, tearing, pieces of fins falling off in chunks, are also signs. If your betta is having these issues you need to treat them as soon as you see these signs. Finrot and tailrot are not contagious initially, but if your tank is not clean and your other fish get wounded that same bacteria will start to harbor on them.
Before you do anything drastic and go out and buy a bunch of medications for your fish, try this. Buy API aquarium salt and API stress coat. These are all that is needed to treat early and medium stages of finrot and tailrot. Aquarium salt is not destructive like medications can be, and should be used before you start medication. Now here is the steps to treating them.
Follow these steps three to five times daily until your fish is healed. Yes, it may take a while. There is never an instant cure.
1. Scoop your betta and some of its tank water in a cup with a lid. Make sure the lid has small holes. The cup your betta came in from the store is perfect.
2. Take a gallon jug of de-chlorinated water and put a teaspoon of API aquarium salt in it. Shake until fully dissolved. (sometimes I put two teaspoons)
3. Pour in some of the salt water into your bettas cup until it is 2/3 full. Wait 5 minutes.
4. When 5 minutes have passed add tank water into the cup until it is nearly full. Wait 5 minutes.
5. Drain the cup, or scoop your betta out and put them back into the tank.
6. Refill your tank with de-chlorinated water with API stress coat or other water conditioner.
Warning Make sure that you keep an eye on your betta fish at all times so they do not go unconscious. If they do they will be lying on their sides, not swimming, and gasping, and you need to get them back into their tank water as fast as possible. They will die if they do not snap back to consciousness. This is a risk with salt bathes but it is uncommon as long as you do not keep them in there for that long and do the proper doses. I unfortunately forgot about my two bettas when I went to clean their tank and they died because I left them in for 20 minutes. Setting a timer is a good idea as well so you do not forget.
You should also keep the water extremely clean when you are treating your betta for finrot. I would do 50-80% water changes for 2.5 gallon tanks, and 50-80% water changes for 5 gallon tanks, every day until your betta is healed. If you have an extra tank you can use this as your hospital tank and can do 100% water changes daily without disturbing the cycle in your own tank.
If the salt bathes do not work or your bettas rot is too far gone I recommend treating with tetracycline, a common medicine found in most fish stores. This will help with stopping the bacteria from harming your betta any longer. This can be taken up to 10 days by your betta fish. Do not add to tanks with live plants or invertebrates so get your betta a hospital tank they can heal in.
It is possible after the finrot is cured to have dead finnage dragging off of your betta. This is literally dead weight. With careful precision you may be able to snip off your bettas rotted fin so that the flesh can grow back eventually. This is done with scissors, but before you stick sharp objects into the tank you can separate your betta into a small cup to try and see if you can get a better shot at it.
Many fish hobbiests use clove oil as a means to sedate the fish before cutting their fins, this is usually done with larger fish like arowanas and koi, but has been done successfully with betta fish. I strongly recommend you use caution as bettas have been known not to wake up from the operation. To perform this operation you will need the following
1. a towel
2. a bucket or bowl that can hold at least 4 cups of water
3. clove oil
4. a syringe
5. a bubbler
6. a hospital tank
7. Scissors
Directions
1. Take your betta fish and put them in a hospital tank with fresh water. Make sure to acclimate them to it.
2. Put an airstone in the hospital tank and turn it on.
3. Fill the bowl or bucket with 4 cups of clean de-chlorinated water.
4. add one drop of clove oil to the bowl or bucket after sucking it up with the syringe.
5. add your betta fish to the bucket or bowl and wait for them to pass out. Your betta should still have gill function but not flinch or move when you touch them. It should take only a minute or two for them to be sedated. They should be limp.
6. Place your betta gently on the towel on a sturdy surface. Gently trim your bettas fins where the dead parts are. You want this to be as quick as possible yet precise. Make sure this is as gentle as possible so as not to harm your betta. Make sure your betta stays wet.
7. When you have finished trimming the fins place your betta in the hospital tank under the bubbler, which helps get oxygen to your betta. You can hold them there until they wake up, which can take up to 40 minutes but usually around 10. Your betta should start to twitch and try to swim as it wakes up, but wont be able to swim upright and normal until fully recovered from the clove oil.
8. Keep your betta in the hospital tank for a few days until healed. Doing 100% water changes daily in the hospital tank to keep the water very clean.
Fin nipping is a common behavior in bettas with very large or long fins. Most common in dumbo, rose petal, and halfmoon betta fish. Usually it is a sign of either boredom, stress, or when the bettas fins are so large or long they get annoyed. Occasionally bettas also mistake their long tails as a challenger and attack them. If your bettas fins suddenly get shredded over night it is probably fin nipping.
To help your betta you can reduce the water flow by putting a sponge over the intake of the filter, you can get them more decor or change around the tank, you can get them tank mates, you can put a mirror outside the tank for a few hours a day, you can get them a betta leaf bed to rest on near the top of the water. These help to distract your betta from its own fins and also entertain your betta.
Of course you will also want to keep the water extremely clean and perform water changes more often so that the new wounds do not develop fin rot.
You may have had a betta fish in a bowl or small container, no heater, no filter, and it lived for 5 years. But what you may not realize is the signs of stress in betta fish. You may not think that you have to do much to keep one alive, but let me explain to you what your fish is likely dealing with right under your nose. Stress!
Stress in betta fish is caused by colder water (anything under 74 degrees), high levels of ammonia and nitrates/nitrites, high PH, small puddle like conditions, little surface area. Signs of stress include color loss, clamped fins, trouble swimming, gasping, transparent fins, and constantly going up to the surface to breathe. Another sign is if it keeps trying to jump out of the bowl, because it is doing natural behavior to find a bigger puddle or better conditions! You might ask what does stress do to a fish? It can't be that bad? Well it is.
Stress in fish causes a weakened immune system and leaves the fish very susceptible to disease, and in a small stagnant bowl where a fish is constantly pooping and breathing out things that bacteria lives off of, it is bad. Living conditions like this are a breeding ground for harmful bacteria and fungus that will take advantage of the fishes weakened immune system. This can cause fin rot, bacteria infections, fungal infections, ick, pop eye, etc. All of which are serious diseases for your fish. Stress can also cause the fish to start nipping it's own fins which creates open wounds that bacteria will love to fester in and may cause fungus or fin rot quickly. If your betta gets fin rot in a bowl or small container it is very hard to get rid of it because the fish will not have good water conditions and the space it needs to heal its fins. Fin rot can easily be cured with clean water daily and aquarium salt, but if the fish is under stress with a weakened immune system it is very difficult to treat, and soon enough your fish's fins will be eaten away and it can turn into body rot which is your fish turning into a zombie! That is not fun for the fish.
Smaller bowls also require daily 100% water changes. The nitrogen cycle will be very off balance in a small bowl or container and it wont be able to eat away at the large amounts of waste your fish produces. A lot of bowls and vases are lipped or narrow towards the top which creates little space for your pet to breathe.
It is hard to treat any diseases under these conditions, so please try to better your fishes living conditions. Your betta fish is supposed to live 5-7 years at most, if it only lives one or 2 years it died prematurely, and if it was caused by small betta bowls, no heating, etc. then that is why. Please consider getting better conditions for your pet. After all, it is best to go bigger and better.
Here are some links that take you to reliable sources for your betta.
Treating Diseases/Sickness
www.bettatalk.com/betta_diseas…
bubblesandbettas.blogspot.com/…
www.bettafish.com/showthread.p…
Other Care
scalestails.tumblr.com/
Scalestails has a lot of good information. Just look up betta fish/beta fish and you will find a ton of info and other cute betta things.
Here is my beginner guide to betta fish! let me know if I should add anything. I know my information may not be complete and may be controversial to other fish hobbiests. Please post positive feedback or even your own advise for betta fish! Thank you.
India * Simon * Garfunkel * Airivata*
Ross** Picasso** Cyllene* Elara
Titan* Callisto* Amare* Nautilus
Phoebe Bellatrix
My Betta Splenden Tree
*Diseased
** No Longer Own
India- Died by getting stuck in decor
Simon- Died by being exposed to salty water for too long
Garfunkel- Died by being exposed to salty water for too long
Airivata- Died from symptoms of dropsy
Ross- Bought by customer at work
Picasso- Given to my work to put up for sale
Cyllene- Died from getting stuck in filter
Elara- Blue and red female crowntail
Titan- Cause of death unknown.
Callisto- Cause of death unknown.
Emare- Died from getting stuck in filter
Nautilus- Male Koi Plakat
Phoebe- Gorgeous yellow pineapple halfmoon female
Bellatrix- Mysterious dark crowntail female
I worked at a saltwater and freshwater fish store and I have owned fish tanks my entire life, ranging from a 80 gal fresh to 60 gal salt. I am young, but am very passionate about my animals and helping others keep their pets happy and healthy. I create guides for pets that I am familiar with and or own so that others may take my experience and advice. I know that there are many ways to do things in the aquarium hobby so if my techniques differ from others I understand. I try to have a reason behind everything I do, and why I do it. So here is my guide.
Taking Care of a Betta
Are you planning on a tank? Do you have a betta already at home? Did you just buy one today? Well here is a guide for you. If you already own one take a look to see if you are caring for your pet to ensure it lives a long, healthy, life.
Enclosure
How big?- Which was the right choice? Well bettas, as small as they are, actually need plenty of space to roam. They cannot live properly in a bowl or small unfiltered tank. They need at least 2.5 gallons each or more! 5 gallons is preferred, and in 10 gallons your fish will be livelier than ever. I advise to ditch bowls completely, as well as the specially made "betta homes". The smaller the home, the more you have to clean it and take care of it. Sometimes it depends on what type of betta you get as well, which will be explained later on.
1.Tetra 1.1 Gal : This tank is only 1.1 gal. Remember Betta fish need at least 2.5 gallons. Plus you need room for a filter, heater, and decor. This tank does not give adequate space to fit those products.
2. Betta Falls : This setup is beautiful, but has less than a gallon per tank section. It also will need a heater, and from my personal experience the water evaporates fast and needs to be filled daily to maintain the waterfalls flow. (we have one on display at work).
3. My Fun Fish Tank (As Seen on TV) : This tank is shaped very tall and would not provide good surface area for proper oxygenation of the water, which is important for fish to breathe. It is also a poor way to do water changes, and you will need de-chlorinated water to make it safe for anything, and it actually is removing beneficial bacterial in the gravel, which comes out in the "dirty" water. Again is under a gallon of water and does not house enough space for a heater and filter.
4. 2.5 Gal divided tank : Is divided to fit 2 betta fish, but since it is only 2.5 gallons each betta would have only 1.25 gallons to call their home. It comes with a small filter but still needs a heater. This is better, getting the version without the divider will be okay for a betta.
5. Mini Aquaponics System : The plants cannot keep up with the waste produced by a fish on this small of a level. You will still need to buy a filter and heater for this system to work. From the pictures it seems to be large enough for a betta fish but make sure it is still at least 2.5 gallons.
6. Divided Mini Tank : This is basically a cup. It is less than a gallon and has no space for a heater or filter. It is also divided so each betta probably gets .5 gallons to roam. Which is next to nothing.
1. MiniBow 2.5 Gal : Large enough for one betta. Has a filter already, you will just need a heater.
2. 3 Gal Cube : Large enough for one betta. Also has a filter, you will just need the heater.
3. 2.5 Gal Kit : Large enough for one betta. Has a filter. Again will need the heater.
4. 5 Gal Fluval Spec : For one betta, or two if you get a divider. Has a filter but you will need a heater.
5. 12 Gal Fluval : Perfect for a larger or faster betta. Such as the Kings or Plakats. Comes with everything but the heater.
6. 10 Gal Kit : Perfect shape for a divider if you want two betta fish, or just one happy betta, also large enough for a Plakat. May need heater if not included in your particular kit.
Common Tanks Sold at Stores "Not Recommended"
1.Tetra 1.1 Gal : This tank is only 1.1 gal. Remember Betta fish need at least 2.5 gallons. Plus you need room for a filter, heater, and decor. This tank does not give adequate space to fit those products.
2. Betta Falls : This setup is beautiful, but has less than a gallon per tank section. It also will need a heater, and from my personal experience the water evaporates fast and needs to be filled daily to maintain the waterfalls flow. (we have one on display at work).
3. My Fun Fish Tank (As Seen on TV) : This tank is shaped very tall and would not provide good surface area for proper oxygenation of the water, which is important for fish to breathe. It is also a poor way to do water changes, and you will need de-chlorinated water to make it safe for anything, and it actually is removing beneficial bacterial in the gravel, which comes out in the "dirty" water. Again is under a gallon of water and does not house enough space for a heater and filter.
4. 2.5 Gal divided tank : Is divided to fit 2 betta fish, but since it is only 2.5 gallons each betta would have only 1.25 gallons to call their home. It comes with a small filter but still needs a heater. This is better, getting the version without the divider will be okay for a betta.
5. Mini Aquaponics System : The plants cannot keep up with the waste produced by a fish on this small of a level. You will still need to buy a filter and heater for this system to work. From the pictures it seems to be large enough for a betta fish but make sure it is still at least 2.5 gallons.
6. Divided Mini Tank : This is basically a cup. It is less than a gallon and has no space for a heater or filter. It is also divided so each betta probably gets .5 gallons to roam. Which is next to nothing.
Recommended Tanks
1. MiniBow 2.5 Gal : Large enough for one betta. Has a filter already, you will just need a heater.
2. 3 Gal Cube : Large enough for one betta. Also has a filter, you will just need the heater.
3. 2.5 Gal Kit : Large enough for one betta. Has a filter. Again will need the heater.
4. 5 Gal Fluval Spec : For one betta, or two if you get a divider. Has a filter but you will need a heater.
5. 12 Gal Fluval : Perfect for a larger or faster betta. Such as the Kings or Plakats. Comes with everything but the heater.
6. 10 Gal Kit : Perfect shape for a divider if you want two betta fish, or just one happy betta, also large enough for a Plakat. May need heater if not included in your particular kit.
Light Fixture and cover?- Bettas do well with little light, so not much is needed if you don't have the funds. If your tank comes with lights they will already be enough. But if you do not have a light you may not have to worry unless you have live plants. It is certainly easier to see their beautiful colors with a light and benefits their colors. As for a cover it is mandatory as betta fish are jumpers! They may try to jump out of the tank without a cover on it or if there are holes where the filter/heater is. You can easily buy mesh or crafting mesh canvas to cut to the size of the holes and place them over. You can buy it at most craft stores and it usually costs under a dollar for a whole piece.
Filter?- Small filters meant for 2.5-10 gallon tanks are nice because they help keep a home for essential bacteria that will breakdown waste and ammonia from your fish. The only problem is that your bettas fins are very... very delicate. In the wild they live in slow moving streams. In a tank with a filter the current may be too much for a betta to comfortably swim in and they may struggle to get to the surface to breath. The intake may also suck them and their fins in and they can get stuck. Ripped fins can easily get infected and diseased so what I have learned over the years is to get a pre-filter. Prefilter Sponges can be bought and used to cover the filter intake. This slows down the flow a bit and your bettas fins wont get stuck but still allows for bacteria to grow.
Substrate?- Bare bottom, gravel, sand, all of it works. Though in my experience the marbles have damaged the fins of my bettas. My bettas would go to rest in a crevice in the marbles and come up and get their fins pinched and teared. :C so I would only put a few in if you want a little decoration. Anything that is sharp or jagged would not work either cause that could also tear their fins.
Heating?- Bettas in the wild are tropical fish who thrive in waters 78-82 degrees F. If you live in cold areas a heater might be essential. I live in Southern California (It is hot almost year round), and I still need a heater. Small heaters for 2.5-5 gallons cost around 16-20$. They will keep the water about 80 degrees constantly. Though watch for overheating if the heater doesn't work properly. You may need to take it back. The first week the heater seemed to spike and got hot really fast and made the tank 90 degrees but once I unplugged it and let the tank cool down and then plugged it in again it worked properly. So it might just need some adjusting. For a larger tank you will need to buy a heater made for 10 gallons or more. I used to not have a heater for my betta and he started to get depressed, and he ended up starting to bite at his fins out of stress, so I highly recommend a heater so that your betta will remain happy and keep normal healthy behavior.
Decor?- Some bettas like a lot of decor and some only like a little. I would provide a medium amount of decor to see how your betta likes it and then add more or less as you figure out their personality. Make sure all the decor has smooth edges and can't tear fins. So lava rocks are a no... because they are sharp and jagged. Bettas like places to hide so a small cave might work if the edges are smooth. Terracotta pots work too as long as the hole in the bottom is covered on both sides. You can super glue a marble on each side of the hole, let it dry for a couple of days, and add it into the tank. I have heard of horror stories of bettas getting stuck in the holes and dying, or getting severe wounds in the process, so it probably isn't going to be a good thing for your fish. They love to explore and may try to swim through it. Plants? well bettas love plants to hide in and swim through, though plastic plants will tear their fins, so silk or live plants are recommended. Sometimes silk plants may have sharp plastic pieces so you may want to trim them and sand them down with sandpaper. With live aquatic plants be sure to get ones that will fit in your tank. Slow growing plants will probably be nice for your small tank, and you will need some source of light for the plants. Broader leafed plants tend to do better in low light than small leafed plants. Moss balls do great with bettas as well! Make sure you choose true aquatic plants that can live fully underwater. Plants will need supplements and minerals. For my plants I use API root tabs and API Leaf Zone. They will help keep your plants healthy.
Toys?- There are a few products that are used as toys for betta fish. Betta hammocks are small plastic leaves bettas like to sit on near the surface of the water. It acts like a bed they can rest on and easily gulp air from the surface. You can also get small mirrors for your betta to play with. They will flare up at their reflection. I recommend only putting it in for a little while so your betta doesn't tire out or get bored of it. Every so often you can put it in for them. You can also put in floating plastic beads or bottle caps, as long as they have smooth edges and can't fit in the bettas mouth. Your betta may poke it around, nudge, and swim around it.
Tank Mates?-
There is always a risk with bettas and other fish, but it all depends on the types of fish you get and the nature of your betta. I will go through some compatible tank mates for your betta. These are all peaceful fish that will not harm your betta and can live in the same waters. Make sure if you do get other fish you have an appropriate sized tank. I wouldn't recommend a tank under 15 gallons if you want tank mates. (unless they are small shrimp or snails).
Tetras- Tetras of any kind are safe for your betta, these include but are not limited to, bloodfin, black, glolight, ember, neon, cardinal, black skirt, white skirt, glo fish, rummy nose, etc. They all do best in schools of 5-9 individuals so keep that in mind when you plan on stocking your tank.
Danios- I would recommend any danio as long as it is not a giant danio. Zebra danio's would go well and are peaceful for your bettas. Even small danio's like celestial pearls do good with bettas, as seen in my tank. These are schooling fish.
Rasbora's- These are small fish similar to danio's and tetras. They are peaceful schooling fish that do well with bettas.
White Clouds- Again small schooling fish. These prefer colder waters but can adapt to live with betta fish in 75 degrees.
Otocinclus Catfish- A small peaceful catfish that eats many types of algae. These are far more efficient cleaners than plecos and eat more types of algae. They are not messy like plecos and do not produce much waste. They like small schools around 4 individuals but do not do well in recently established aquariums with little algae growth. If you must get these provide them with algae pellets.
Corydoras Catfish- schooling fish that dwell on the bottom of the tank. Try them in groups of 4. They will uproot live plants so they are not the best for planted tanks.
Loaches- Smaller loach species would be good for betta fish. Most prefer colder water and can adapt with bettas in 75 degrees. They like to school as well so try to get 4 individuals. They are bottom dwellers and also uproot plants like the cory catfish. Do not buy large loaches like the clown loach, despite its striking colors these can get up to 12 inches in length.
Guppies- Guppies do well with bettas but they will breed excessively if you buy a male and female. Your betta may eat the live babies that guppies produce.
African Dwarf Frogs- These are small frogs that grow about 2 inches long. They can also live with bettas peacefully. They, like bettas, tend to jump out of the tank if it is not fully covered with a secure top.
Nerite Snails- These small snails, about an inch in width, are very efficiant algae eaters unlike the mystery and apple snails. They do not grow large and have quite beautiful patterns. They can eat many types of algae, even the stubborn and hard to get rid of species. They do not over take aquariums with their offspring and do not produce a lot of waste like other types of snails.
Small Shrimp- I would suggest ghost shrimp to try out since they are fairly cheap at stores. If your betta does not eat them you can experiment with cherry or crystal shrimp. Many bettas will eat shrimp so watch out.
Warning- If your betta is nipping at any of your tank mates you put in, it is probably best to rehome them or if you have another tank put them in there. Bettas can be aggressive and some just don't like anyone you put in. If you are planning on having a betta with tankmates it may be best to buy the tankmates first and have them established for a week or two, then adding the betta later. It depends on the nature of your betta as well, they can do well with peaceful fish, but may nip at the fins of fancy guppies, or other fish with long fins.
My fish have a range of personalities, India for example hated any moving thing I put in his tank, attacked everything, but Airivata was the kindest and most laid back betta ever, and even shared his home with schools of tetras and two female bettas (Cyllene and Elara). Its all trial and error really.
Cycling
You may or may not have heard of the term cycling in the fish keeping hobby. When I say this I am talking about the nitrogen cycle in the tank. This is for new tanks that haven't been established, and it must be done before adding new fish. Here is a link that explains in detail the nitrogen cycle www.fishlore.com/NitrogenCycle…
Before adding your fish it is recommended by fish hobbyists to cycle your tank for at least 3 weeks. For my tanks it generally takes 2 months to cycle it completely. If you are still planning on getting fish, you should take it slow. Buy the tank first and run it for a few weeks fishless. If you are adding plants it can help speed up the process. I wouldn't add any fish to a tank that hasn't been running for at least 2 weeks, and that is with plants. You can also add an API product called "stress zyme". This already has the beneficial bacteria and helps establish a colony. Add it weekly to a new tank to speed up the process and bulk up your colony. I also add some every time I do a large water change to my tanks.
Types of Bettas
There are many types of different bettas that need different requirements.
Plakat- These are the short finned variety that need more space to roam, I would suggest a 10 gallon for these guys
King- These will need a 15 gallon or more. They get LARGE, hence the name king.
Dumbo- These guys would do best in a smaller tank with a low flow due to their extremely large fins. I would say a 2.5 to 5 gallon
Rose Petal- These bettas have very large fins that overlap each other, though quite beautiful they often have problems with their fins weighing them down. A small 2.5 to 5 gallon tank is best for these, with lots of places to rest on near the surface of the water. Make sure the filter has a low flow as well.
All other varieties- This includes any betta with long flowing fins. Crown, delta, veil, half moon, double tail etc. These can go anywhere from a 2.5-10 gallon or more depending on the flow of the water. They are slower and delicate in aquariums with a powerful filtration or bubblers.
Feeding
What should you feed your betta? I always like choosing the healthiest foods so I get them omega one fish food (pellets) for bettas. Blood worms are also a good treat, and helps fatten them up. If you get frozen blood worms make sure to melt them in de-chlorinated water first and only feed your betta a very small amount. Bettas stomachs are the size of their eyeballs so they can't eat much in one feeding. You can feed bettas flakes too butt be careful how much you feed, in most cases one or two flakes is enough.
When?- Feed your betta 1-2 times daily. Bettas get impacted easily, if your betta seems to be impacted try fasting them for a few days. Some betta owners feed them their normal food for 5 days, fast them for one day, and feed them 1/4 of a blanched pea on the 7th day. This helps them keep a regulated system but it is not necessary. Blanched peas are unsalted boiled peas, the skin must be removed before serving to a betta.
How Much?- I recommend feeding them only 1-3 pellets at a time. Remember how small their stomachs are.
Cleaning and Weekly Maintenance
This is a widely controversial topic but I can give you my own experience with cleaning and how often to do it.
The process of deep cleaning- Deep cleaning to me is when you scrub all sides of the tank, clean the gravel with a siphon, and remove a large portion of the water in a tank, and I wouldn't do so in a tank 10 gallons or more, as it can disturb the cycle which helps eat away at the ammonia and nitrates in the tank, and it may also stress out the entire ecosystem. For smaller tanks like 2.5-5 gallons it may mean a 50/80% water change. Never remove more than 40% of the water in a tank 10 gallons or larger at one time. If your fish is sick they may need a hospital tank that can be cleaned daily with 100% water changes.
2.5-5 gal
1. You will need to remove the fish, invertebrates, and plants.
2. Keep your fish in cups with the old tank water and plants in a bowl with old tank water, make sure the cup has a secure lid with breathing holes. You can buy pet containers at your local pet store.
3. If you have filter pads or sponges also float them in a bowl or cup so you don't kill the beneficial bacteria living in it.
4. Unplug all filters, heaters, and lights.
5. These tanks are small and you may be able to lift them to clean them in a bath tub or shower. I recommend taking the water and watering your plants with them because it has a lot of beneficial minerals and is better than dumping it all down the drain. Take your small tank to the shower or bathtub and rinse out the substrate (this step can be skipped if you want to keep the beneficial bacteria in your gravel or sand alive).
6. Wipe all the sides of the tank and any decor and rinse them.
7. Clean the filter and unclog it if needed. You can even clean your decor and filter in a distilled white vinegar and water solution. 1 part vinegar for 10 parts water. Then rinse very well. You can also clean any plastic decor this way as well.
8. Once you have completed this put the tank back on its stand or shelf, empty.
9. Now fill a bucket with tap water, make sure it is close to the temperature of the tank water before you dumped it, and you can even heat it if needed. Usually I just add a little cold and hot water and check the temperature to see if it is right. As long as it is 76-82 degrees it should be fine.
10. Then add water conditioner to the bucket. Add as much is needed for your tank. Add any other products like the stress zyme etc. Just make sure they wont counteract each other. Mix the water, I usually use the handle of a fishnet.
11.Then get a cup and start adding the water to the tank.
12. Once half full add back the decor, plants etc. The fill to the top.
13. Turn on filter and heater, no lights yet.
14. Float your betta in a cup half full for 10-20 minutes in the water. Then add some of the clean tank water in the cup and float for another 10-20 minutes. This will prevent shock.
15. Once you have completed this you can gently scoop your fish out, or drain the water from the cup. Do not contaminate the clean water with the water in the cup. Then add your fish into the tank. Hurray! You're done.
10 gal plus
1. You will need to remove the fish, invertebrates, and plants.
2. Keep your fish in a container with the old tank water and plants in a bowl with old tank water, make sure the container has a secure lid and breathing holes. You can buy pet containers at your local pet store.
3. If you have filter pads or sponges also float them in a bowl or cup so you don't kill the beneficial bacteria living in it.
4. Unplug all filters, heaters, and lights.
5. Use a siphon, stick it all the way underwater at a 45 degree angle and lift your arm up and down. Make sure the end tube of the siphon is in a bucket lower than the tank. Gravity and suction will do the rest.
6. Suck at the substrate bed, being careful not to suck up the actual substrate or clog the siphon. Go along the entire bottom of the tank. Make sure you take no more than 40% of the water out.
7. Get an algae sponge to scrub on all sides of the tank, the heater, and any other decor.
8. If needed, you can clean your filter with a vinegar and water solution. 1 part vinegar, for every 10 parts water. Then rinse well. You can also clean plastic decor this way.
9. Do not attempt to move an aquarium unless it is completely empty, and get someone to help you.
10. Take the bucket you put all the dirty water in and dump it or water your plants with it.
11. Now rinse the bucket and fill it up with tap water.
12. Use a water conditioner to make your water safe for your tank. API water conditioner, and API stress coat both work to de-chlorinate and detoxify heavy metals, both of which are toxic to fish. If you already have water prepared, and you let the chlorine evaporate from it, you can use that as well. You must let your water sit for at least 24 hours before adding it to a tank if you are not going to use a water conditioner. This process does not remove heavy metals, copper, ammonia or chloramines, it only removes chlorine.
13. Put all the decor and plants back into the tank.
14. Fill up the tank all the way.
15. Turn on all your tanks devices, like the heater, filter, etc. Do not turn on the lights yet.
16. Float your fish for 20 minutes in a plastic bag, make sure 1/3 of the bag has air, the other part water from their container. Once 20 minutes has passed, let in a little of the new tank water, and let them float for 10 minutes. Then add them to the tank.
17. Now you have finished, enjoy your clean tank. Do this every month for a tank 10 gallons or more.
Weekly water changes
Weekly water changes are needed. In a 2.5-5 gallon you will need to remove 20-30% of the water for 3 weeks, and remove the fish when you are performing it, then do a deep clean once a month.
For tanks 10 gallon and up you will need to do weekly 20-30% water changes. Which is removing 20-30% of the water and replacing it with de-chlorinated water. You do not have to remove the fish for these larger tanks. Then one deep clean a month.
Natural Habitat
Betta fish naturally live in tropical Asian countries in marshes, streams, and drainage ditches. They often live in heavy vegetation and acidic waters. Betta fish normally have large spaces to live in the wild, even if they live in a shallow space. The only time they live in puddles is in the dry season where they have to resort to living in small puddles. It is not healthy for them to live this way and they are very susceptible to diseases in such a small space. Many betta fish die in the dry season due to this and the rest can't live very much longer that way. They will try to jump to bigger puddles to survive the dry season. The reason they can survive in these waters for a while is because they have a special organ that allows them to breathe air from the surface. This is where the myth that bettas can live in mud puddles comes from and how the pet industry has come up with the idea that bettas can live in bowls. When indeed they cannot. Here is a good link where you can read about one of the biggest myths of betta fish nippyfish.net/2011/10/23/the-n…
Bubble Nest
Bubbles are appearing at the top of the water in clusters??? This is a natural behavior for male bettas. They do this whenever, but some believe it is a sign of happiness. Bettas blow bubble nests even under stress and inadequate conditions so it is disproven in my opinion. It is natural behavior that male bettas do when preparing for a clutch of eggs. Male bettas will coat bubbles in saliva and stick them together to create a floating nest for eggs. If a female is present and pregnant she will release eggs into the water, then the male will fertilize them and put them into the nest. The male will guard the nest until the eggs hatch and the female will swim away because the male is highly aggressive towards her and will kill her. So do not worry if your betta is blowing bubble nests.
What Betta Should I choose?
You notice there are several betta fish at the store. They are on a shelf and all cramped together in tiny cups. If you want to buy one, make sure you pick a healthy one unless you plan on healing/rehabilitating the betta fish. I recommend that only those with adequate supplies and experience take home the sick ones, just so it heals properly. Look for signs of bulging eyes or belly's, lopsided swimming or floating, pale or transparent fins, inflamed gills, gray chunks of fin, pin holes in fins or tail, pale coloration, how clean the water is. If it is a crowntail the fins may be curled which is usually a sign of bad water conditions and stress. Be mindful that white bettas were obtained through lots of genetic selecting and they may also have problems with their scales. Often pure white bettas may go blind because their scales grow over their eyes.
The healthier ones will usually be the newer ones, which are in the front. Stores will put the new shipment of bettas in the front and the ones that have been there longer will be pushed to the back. What happens to the older bettas? Well usually they die off in a week or two of being placed there. They stay there until they are purchased, and if they are never purchased they die. Sometimes employees will take them in, but who is able to take dozens of bettas? Not many people.
Larger tanks and Dividing
Did you happen to get a bigger tank? a 10 to 15 gallon? Well you can divide the tank easy and only for a few bucks. Then you can have more than one betta fish. Or you can set up a peaceful community tank with a betta in a 20 gallon.
To divide your tank you will need to make your own custom divider. You can have 2 divisions for a 5 gal, 2-3 divisions per 10 gal, 3-4 per 15 gal, and 4-5 with a 20 gal long. I made my own out of a 5 gallon. Do not buy the 2.5 gallon minibow tank with the divider, even if the packaging says it is fine for bettas that leave them with 1.25 gallons of water each. Do not buy any tank less than 5 gallons with a divider, it will not be sufficient to keeping your fish healthy. Make sure you are prepared to take care of diseases and illness that might happen in a divided tank, if one fish gets sick, then assume that your other fish may be sick as well.
It was fairly easy to make this divider myself and only took about 20 minutes
Instructions can be seen here to make your own! bettasplendid.weebly.com/diy-d…
For a community tank you will need a large tank, 15-20 gallons, and remember only one male betta. You can have peaceful fish that get along with bettas, which can be seen in the tank mates section of this page. Since bettas are normally solitary you will need lots of hiding spaces. Remember they still need a heater and make sure you use caution when you add bubblers/airstones, as bettas are not strong swimmers. If the filter is too powerful you may want to get two smaller ones instead and remember to create a buffer so that the betta doesn't get sucked into the intake. Bettas with shorter fins may do better as they swim easier in turbulent water.
Recently I discovered how amazing bettas do in larger tanks. They can live in very large tanks without a problem. If you have other fish you can even try putting a betta in with them. This must always be done with caution, as other tank mates may not get along, but there are always exceptions.
Peaceful Tankmates
Bettas in peaceful tanks with a lot of tetras should be safe. Your betta is less likely to attack fish if they have short fins, what you should worry about is other fish attacking your betta. Lots of fish can be fin nippers, such as mollies, but sometimes you can set up a peaceful tank with a betta and fish that are known as fin nippers. It all depends on the personalities of your fish.
For example, I had a betta named Airivata, he was a plakat, and I added him to my 20 gallon tank that had 2 female mollies. Once I put him in there were no problems at all between my mollies and my betta. There were no fights or anything. He even did fine with the filter intake and the airstones. Despite what most fish hobbyists say, you can try out set ups like this, but always plan for another home for your betta or their tank mates if it doesn't work out.
Aggressive Tankmates?
Aggressive fish can be dangerous to your betta, many are attracted to long flowing fins, and if they are big enough they may eat your betta. Always, always do a setup like this with caution, experience, research, and a backup plan. It is easier to establish the least aggressive fish first and add the most aggressive last. The least aggressive fish can set up their spot in the tank and their place, and when the aggressive fish comes in they are less likely to be bullied.
At my old work we had a 25 gallon tank with lots of tetras, we added a male delta tail betta, and the flow is fairly medium but the betta is fine and his fins are not being torn and he is finding the slower moving spots where he can rest and swim easily. We added 3 blue rams, a type of cichlid, which is an aggressive fish. The betta is not actively attacking any other fish, and the cichlids are keeping to themselves, despite what has been said about them. These types of setups may be possible, but always do with caution, and if you are planning on it, always put the least aggressive species in first, and then add the most aggressive last. I also recommend only experienced fish hobbyists try this. Always have a plan if your setup doesn't work out, you may need another home for your fish.
Finrot? Tailrot? Bodyrot? Special Treatment for Bettas
Bettas are prone to getting finrot and tailrot, which can lead to bodyrot if not treated. Bettas are different than other fish, they have a labyrinth organ that allows them to breathe from the surface. Some medications used to treat finrot and tailrot can harm this special organ. So I am going to share my way of treating this common illness.
First. Avoid anything with tea tree oils in it. Melafix and bettafix are natural formulas for treating finrot, but whats the big deal? They are made of tea tree oils and powders that can harm the labyrinth organ. Yes, bettafix, meant for betta fish, harms them. Do not use it if you want to keep your fishes labyrinth organ functioning properly.
Next, spot the finrot or tail rot. If you see transparent, white, black, red, edges on your bettas fins they could be a sign of finrot. Pinholes, tearing, pieces of fins falling off in chunks, are also signs. If your betta is having these issues you need to treat them as soon as you see these signs. Finrot and tailrot are not contagious initially, but if your tank is not clean and your other fish get wounded that same bacteria will start to harbor on them.
Early or Medium Fin/Tail/Body Rot
Follow these steps three to five times daily until your fish is healed. Yes, it may take a while. There is never an instant cure.
1. Scoop your betta and some of its tank water in a cup with a lid. Make sure the lid has small holes. The cup your betta came in from the store is perfect.
2. Take a gallon jug of de-chlorinated water and put a teaspoon of API aquarium salt in it. Shake until fully dissolved. (sometimes I put two teaspoons)
3. Pour in some of the salt water into your bettas cup until it is 2/3 full. Wait 5 minutes.
4. When 5 minutes have passed add tank water into the cup until it is nearly full. Wait 5 minutes.
5. Drain the cup, or scoop your betta out and put them back into the tank.
6. Refill your tank with de-chlorinated water with API stress coat or other water conditioner.
Warning Make sure that you keep an eye on your betta fish at all times so they do not go unconscious. If they do they will be lying on their sides, not swimming, and gasping, and you need to get them back into their tank water as fast as possible. They will die if they do not snap back to consciousness. This is a risk with salt bathes but it is uncommon as long as you do not keep them in there for that long and do the proper doses. I unfortunately forgot about my two bettas when I went to clean their tank and they died because I left them in for 20 minutes. Setting a timer is a good idea as well so you do not forget.
You should also keep the water extremely clean when you are treating your betta for finrot. I would do 50-80% water changes for 2.5 gallon tanks, and 50-80% water changes for 5 gallon tanks, every day until your betta is healed. If you have an extra tank you can use this as your hospital tank and can do 100% water changes daily without disturbing the cycle in your own tank.
Advanced Fin/Tail/Body Rot
If the salt bathes do not work or your bettas rot is too far gone I recommend treating with tetracycline, a common medicine found in most fish stores. This will help with stopping the bacteria from harming your betta any longer. This can be taken up to 10 days by your betta fish. Do not add to tanks with live plants or invertebrates so get your betta a hospital tank they can heal in.
Trimming off dead fins
It is possible after the finrot is cured to have dead finnage dragging off of your betta. This is literally dead weight. With careful precision you may be able to snip off your bettas rotted fin so that the flesh can grow back eventually. This is done with scissors, but before you stick sharp objects into the tank you can separate your betta into a small cup to try and see if you can get a better shot at it.
Many fish hobbiests use clove oil as a means to sedate the fish before cutting their fins, this is usually done with larger fish like arowanas and koi, but has been done successfully with betta fish. I strongly recommend you use caution as bettas have been known not to wake up from the operation. To perform this operation you will need the following
1. a towel
2. a bucket or bowl that can hold at least 4 cups of water
3. clove oil
4. a syringe
5. a bubbler
6. a hospital tank
7. Scissors
Directions
1. Take your betta fish and put them in a hospital tank with fresh water. Make sure to acclimate them to it.
2. Put an airstone in the hospital tank and turn it on.
3. Fill the bowl or bucket with 4 cups of clean de-chlorinated water.
4. add one drop of clove oil to the bowl or bucket after sucking it up with the syringe.
5. add your betta fish to the bucket or bowl and wait for them to pass out. Your betta should still have gill function but not flinch or move when you touch them. It should take only a minute or two for them to be sedated. They should be limp.
6. Place your betta gently on the towel on a sturdy surface. Gently trim your bettas fins where the dead parts are. You want this to be as quick as possible yet precise. Make sure this is as gentle as possible so as not to harm your betta. Make sure your betta stays wet.
7. When you have finished trimming the fins place your betta in the hospital tank under the bubbler, which helps get oxygen to your betta. You can hold them there until they wake up, which can take up to 40 minutes but usually around 10. Your betta should start to twitch and try to swim as it wakes up, but wont be able to swim upright and normal until fully recovered from the clove oil.
8. Keep your betta in the hospital tank for a few days until healed. Doing 100% water changes daily in the hospital tank to keep the water very clean.
Fin Nipping and How to stop it
Fin nipping is a common behavior in bettas with very large or long fins. Most common in dumbo, rose petal, and halfmoon betta fish. Usually it is a sign of either boredom, stress, or when the bettas fins are so large or long they get annoyed. Occasionally bettas also mistake their long tails as a challenger and attack them. If your bettas fins suddenly get shredded over night it is probably fin nipping.
To help your betta you can reduce the water flow by putting a sponge over the intake of the filter, you can get them more decor or change around the tank, you can get them tank mates, you can put a mirror outside the tank for a few hours a day, you can get them a betta leaf bed to rest on near the top of the water. These help to distract your betta from its own fins and also entertain your betta.
Of course you will also want to keep the water extremely clean and perform water changes more often so that the new wounds do not develop fin rot.
For Owners of Betta's Who Swear by Inadequate Living Conditions!
You may have had a betta fish in a bowl or small container, no heater, no filter, and it lived for 5 years. But what you may not realize is the signs of stress in betta fish. You may not think that you have to do much to keep one alive, but let me explain to you what your fish is likely dealing with right under your nose. Stress!
Stress in betta fish is caused by colder water (anything under 74 degrees), high levels of ammonia and nitrates/nitrites, high PH, small puddle like conditions, little surface area. Signs of stress include color loss, clamped fins, trouble swimming, gasping, transparent fins, and constantly going up to the surface to breathe. Another sign is if it keeps trying to jump out of the bowl, because it is doing natural behavior to find a bigger puddle or better conditions! You might ask what does stress do to a fish? It can't be that bad? Well it is.
Stress in fish causes a weakened immune system and leaves the fish very susceptible to disease, and in a small stagnant bowl where a fish is constantly pooping and breathing out things that bacteria lives off of, it is bad. Living conditions like this are a breeding ground for harmful bacteria and fungus that will take advantage of the fishes weakened immune system. This can cause fin rot, bacteria infections, fungal infections, ick, pop eye, etc. All of which are serious diseases for your fish. Stress can also cause the fish to start nipping it's own fins which creates open wounds that bacteria will love to fester in and may cause fungus or fin rot quickly. If your betta gets fin rot in a bowl or small container it is very hard to get rid of it because the fish will not have good water conditions and the space it needs to heal its fins. Fin rot can easily be cured with clean water daily and aquarium salt, but if the fish is under stress with a weakened immune system it is very difficult to treat, and soon enough your fish's fins will be eaten away and it can turn into body rot which is your fish turning into a zombie! That is not fun for the fish.
Smaller bowls also require daily 100% water changes. The nitrogen cycle will be very off balance in a small bowl or container and it wont be able to eat away at the large amounts of waste your fish produces. A lot of bowls and vases are lipped or narrow towards the top which creates little space for your pet to breathe.
It is hard to treat any diseases under these conditions, so please try to better your fishes living conditions. Your betta fish is supposed to live 5-7 years at most, if it only lives one or 2 years it died prematurely, and if it was caused by small betta bowls, no heating, etc. then that is why. Please consider getting better conditions for your pet. After all, it is best to go bigger and better.
Special Links
Here are some links that take you to reliable sources for your betta.
Treating Diseases/Sickness
www.bettatalk.com/betta_diseas…
bubblesandbettas.blogspot.com/…
www.bettafish.com/showthread.p…
Other Care
scalestails.tumblr.com/
Scalestails has a lot of good information. Just look up betta fish/beta fish and you will find a ton of info and other cute betta things.
Conclusion
Here is my beginner guide to betta fish! let me know if I should add anything. I know my information may not be complete and may be controversial to other fish hobbiests. Please post positive feedback or even your own advise for betta fish! Thank you.
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This was great to read. People kept giving me bad info. One said the cycling business I learned about was nonsense for a betta and to just throw it in my tap water cuz it'd be fine. Another said I didn't need to "buy all that shit" cuz betta's are sturdy, cheap fish. The first later said doing all this was pointless because it was just going to sit at the bottom of the tank just like all his friends' bettas he'd seen at their homes. Lastly, my family got a betta and keep it in a bowl with roots taking up space in there on the kitchen table... I'd never ran an aquarium myself before, so I wasn't sure what to expect, but I'm so happy I went all out like what you'd said above and only use a bowl for big water changes now. I have to keep her in a dark box with bloodworm prizes then cuz she absolutely hates it. My girl is so active! Everything they said was completely wrong, and I would have believed bettas are "lazy" and "boring" fish because she would have suffered under their directions. I'm sure this blog will help a lot of enthusiasts like me. These salesmen just want to make money, and I just want to give my fish a good place.